Those who weren't quite so enthused with the '80s redux that ran rampant on the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week runways for Fall 2009 may be relieved when spring arrives, says www.nationaljewelernetwork.com. 

Diane von Furstenberg's New York show seemed to epitomize the mood for Spring 2010. Whether donning a classic black shift, a long, flowing gown featuring a painterly print, or shorter, tribal-inspired separates - all among the season's au courant trends - the models were accessorized with a seemingly unstudied mix of jewelry. For every look, colorful cuffs were piled high on both wrists, sometimes with a fine gold link bracelet added to the mix, other times with a long gold necklace swinging low.

Instead of a dictum of acid hues, power suits and voluminous mini-dresses à la the '80s, an "anything goes" ethos prevailed, with apparel ranging from ethereal, floor-length frocks to fitted jackets paired with short, thigh-skimming shorts.

The color palette included a healthy dose of basics: black, white and a plethora of nude or khaki tones, as well as Easter egg hues prime for spring. These, as well as a few bolder hues - turquoise, bright red, deep blue - were rendered in a mix of solids and prints, the latter a designer fixation on the spring runways.

"Anything goes," says Helena Krodel, director of media and special events for the Jewelry Information Center. "People don't have to worry so much about matching. There's no rhyme or reason. It almost seems like the trend is to not match."

While that may be freeing for some, the trend, or lack thereof, may actually inspire a bit of panic in customers who like hard and fast rules.

"But once you step out of your comfort zone, it gets liberating and it's easier to dress," Krodel says.

Styling tips

Designers who styled models with jewelry mostly chose low-slung necklaces, cuffs or bangle bracelets, worn alone on one wrist or piled up high.

Though the looks may have appeared insouciant, a few simple wardrobing guidelines remain in effect.

Duvall O'Steen, director of jewelry PR and promotion for the World Gold Council (WGC), says textured fabrics should be worn with highly polished jewelry that serves as a contrast. Inversely, a smooth, satin gown complements more detailed designs featuring gemstones, openwork or engraving, for example.

Such edicts were visible at Carmen Marc Valvo's show, where, with the help of the WGC, models wearing heavier wool cocktail dresses or embellished gowns donned smooth gold hoops and bangle bracelets from the likes of Chris Aire, Mattioli and Roberto Coin, among others.

Artfully assembled "multimedia necklaces," as Krodel calls them, made from tangled chains and accented with pearls and gemstones as well as shell and beads, remain a holdover from fall, and for spring, they will be paired with edgy, tough-girl attire, from the likes of D&G, or bohemian looks like those at Catherine Malandrino.

Long, floaty gowns, like those on Jen Kao's runway, could be anchored by one of the season's low, U-shaped necklaces, but a big bracelet could do the trick too, says Krodel. Shorter, choker-style necklaces that won't get caught are the practical and stylish choice for lace apparel, another big trend. Finally, tailored shorts and jackets, like those seen on the runways of 3.1 Phillip Lim and Tory Burch, were often dressed up to great effect with a single gold cuff or bracelet at the wrist.

Fun with faux

Fine jewelry had quite a runway run-from the H. Stern gold pieces mixed in with bright costume cuffs at Diane von Furstenberg to the WGC collaboration with Carmen Marc Valvo, which put a who's who list of designer gold on the catwalk, and onto Times Square jumbotrons.

And although faux pieces were also out in full force, jewelers needn't worry, says O'Steen.

"It's good for all of us when runways are filled with eye-catching jewelry, whether it's costume or not," she says.

Krodel agrees, adding that the mix of costume and fine pieces on runways mimics real-world style choices.

"I think the advice is that not  everything you wear has to match, has to be completely costume or completely fine," she says. "I think that's how women are dressing now. They're mixing things they love and that are very precious, and things they may have picked up along the way."

What it all adds up to is a playful tone for jewelry welcomed by industry insiders like O'Steen.

"Designers are encouraging women to have fun," she says. "Right now, we need a little fun. The interesting thing that's happened with the recession is that the old rules no longer apply."